Do Brakes Need To Be Bled After Changing Pads
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| Terminal week I swapped the brake pads on our 2004 Oldsmobile Alero. I'chiliad not a motorcar mechanic by whatever ways, but I decided I'd try the task myself for money-saving purposes, equally the pads were $20 (vs it probably costing $100 if I'd had it washed past a shop). I followed the steps as shown on a video, removing the bicycle & the caliper, with the caliper supported so information technology wasn't hanging by the brake lines, removing the old pads, greasing the new pads, putting them in, closing the caliper in with the C-clamp (using one of the erstwhile pads where the "tip" of the C-clench went so it had a smooth surface to practise its affair), and then re-attaching everything. I didn't change the rotors (a guy at AutoZone managed to peek & say they looked fine to him), I had driven it almost zero since hearing the scrubbing noise during braking (we accept a second car, we just parked the Alero) as prior feel told me I'd better act fast or else the brake task would be a lot more than involved. I didn't "bleed" the brakes during this process, as I didn't change anything only the pads, the only thing was when I first test-drove it the restriction pedal initially went almost to the floor, I had to "pump" the pedal a few times initially before leaving our driveway & hitting the road itself. Since and so, though, it'southward driven fine with no issues at all. It was always my understanding that y'all only bleed the brakes if you alter out everything (as in the pads, rotors and calipers), but that if all you did was swap the pads, you lot didn't need to. Was I correct or wrong on that? LRH |
07-25-2013, 11:15 AM 
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| you don't bleed brakes when you change the pads. |
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| As long as you didn't open the fluid lines to the caliper or anywhere else, you don't demand to bleed them. I always bleed mine though since it takes literally 10 minutes of additional piece of work. Brake fluid should be bled every two-3 years. |
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| Thanks very much, you verified what I thought all along. Others I know who have more than experience with such things (and thus are ones I tend to believe over my own thoughts in such situations) had asked me "did y'all bleed the brakes" & I replied "I just inverse the pads, I ever heard you didn't need to if all yous do is alter the pads" & I could hear them groaning like they were thinking "oh boy, I promise the car doesn't crash." Then I was correct on this one, huh? Ha ha, that's funny, I'm going to have fun with this one when I tell them. It likewise makes me feel more calm & relaxed besides, again, such tasks aren't tasks I do, normally I'd just pay a shop to do it. I'm more of a computers/cameras/electronics type of person, not a mechanical "Tim the Toolman Taylor" blazon of person, and so I really surprised myself here, a LOT. Thank you very much for the quick feedback. LRH |
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| Quote: Originally Posted by frankgn87 you don't bleed brakes when you change the pads. Agreed. I replaced the pads and rotors on my wife'due south 2007 BMW last weekend. As long every bit you don't open up the lines, there is no need to drain them. Just shrink the piston with a C-clamp to get the new pads to clear the rotor. Toll of new front pads, rotors, and wear sensor doing it yourself........ $203. |
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| You lot already collection it. Then you would know if you needed to drain the brakes. Air in the system would crusade the brake light to come up on, and you would have at least a spongy pedal and at worst a pedal which went right to the flooring. If you did not open the lines, you are fine. Replacing pads (or pads and rotors) should not typically require haemorrhage. All that said, yous need to pay attention to your calipers still to make sure they do not beginning seeping fluid, or sticking. Calipers exercise not always have kindly to replacing pads, due to historic period/wear. Also, I hope yous fabricated sure the calipers are sliding well on their pins, and also greased those pins. Yous tin can do a restriction task without this, but re-greasing the pins anytime you service the brakes will keep them moving freely and properly. |
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| Popular the hood and take a peek at the brake fluid reseviour. When you lot push the pistons in, the fluid travels back up to hither. Make sure the reseviour is not overfilled and spilling out. If needed, remove some fluid to just under MAX. |
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| as the others said, you are skilful to go since y'all didnt cleft the hydraulic system. the reason you had to pump the brakes a couple of times to get a pedal is because you pushed all the fluid in the calipers dorsum up into the principal cylinder, and it takes a couple of pumps to go the fluid back into the calipers. i would nevertheless check the master cylinder fluid level and arrange information technology as necessary. |
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| Quote: Originally Posted by Checkered24 Air in the system would cause the brake light to come on, Not commonly |
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| Quote: Originally Posted by larrytxeast Last week I swapped the restriction pads on our 2004 Oldsmobile Alero. I'm not a car mechanic by any means, just I decided I'd endeavor the job myself for money-saving purposes, as the pads were $20 (vs information technology probably costing $100 if I'd had information technology done past a shop). I followed the steps as shown on a video, removing the wheel & the caliper, with the caliper supported so it wasn't hanging by the brake lines, removing the old pads, greasing the new pads, putting them in, endmost the caliper in with the C-clamp (using one of the onetime pads where the "tip" of the C-clench went and then it had a smooth surface to do its thing), and so re-attaching everything. I didn't modify the rotors (a guy at AutoZone managed to peek & say they looked fine to him), I had driven it nearly goose egg since hearing the scrubbing dissonance during braking (we have a 2nd auto, nosotros merely parked the Alero) as prior experience told me I'd better deed fast or else the restriction job would be a lot more involved. I didn't "bleed" the brakes during this process, as I didn't change annihilation but the pads, the only thing was when I commencement test-drove it the brake pedal initially went near to the floor, I had to "pump" the pedal a few times initially before leaving our driveway & hitting the road itself. Since then, though, information technology'southward driven fine with no issues at all. Information technology was always my understanding that you lot only bleed the brakes if you lot change out everything (every bit in the pads, rotors and calipers), merely that if all you lot did was bandy the pads, you didn't demand to. Was I correct or incorrect on that? LRH All you demand to do is start the machine, and press the brake pedal several times, until it builds up normal resistance. That's when the calipers have extended themselves, and you lot're fix to bulldoze. |
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